Local wine industry forms alliance

Group names itself after the special micro-climate called the 'Petaluma Gap,' where cool evening flog blows in off the ocean, locking in the flavor of pinot noir, Chardonnay and other grapes

April 26, 2006

By DANE GOLDEN
ARGUS-COURIER STAFF

One of the greatest places to grow pinot noir grapes may be right outside your window.

That's what many local grape growers and winemakers say, and they're banding together to spread the word. They plan to promote the local wine-growing area as the "Petaluma Gap," a microclimate that sits within the Sonoma Coast wine region. They are tentatively calling themselves the Petaluma Gap Grape and Wine Alliance.

The more than 20 members range in size from aficionados such as Barry Singer, with six wine barrels, to Keller Estate, with thousands of cases.

Although there has been talk of forming a group since last year, the alliance has really started to come to fruition over the last few weeks with an industry wine tasting at the Barry Singer Gallery in March and a working meeting on April 11.

Wine journalist and local sommelier Chris Sawyer, a resident of Petaluma, suggested using the Petaluma Gap term in the group's name. He said the climate here is unique for growing certain types of grapes.

"We all know how fast the wind rushes into Petaluma," Sawyer said. "That's a very helpful thing. Our low-lying hills allow the wind to move the fog in faster, shutting down grapes in the early evening."

This preserves the fruit longer, he said, allowing grapes like pinot noir and chardonnay, as well as syrah and merlot and other varietals, to have longer growing seasons. Pinot and chardonnay don't grow well in hot areas.

"Pinot noir is a very, very delicate grape," Sawyer said.

The Petaluma Gap Grape and Wine Alliance is still determining what their precise goals will be, but core among the ideas is the promotion of the Petaluma Gap as an area with special qualities within the Sonoma Coast. The group will likely be participating in local events, and may lobby for dedicated shelf space in local stores or help members sell into local restaurants. A Petaluma Gap wine club is another idea, and the alliance may also try to create a special description or label in conjunction with PetalumaÕs 150th anniversary in 2008.

The group is not seeking to become an officially recognized area, known as an appellation, and will continue in the Sonoma Coast appellation.

The initial impetus for the group's formation was an article in Petaluma Magazine last year about local winemakers and growers, who, after reading the article, decided to meet. The idea of a local alliance was then championed by Timo and Frances Rivetti, among others. The Rivettis are home winemaking enthusiasts with a half-acre vineyard they call Que Syra Syrah.

The group continues to gain momentum, and committees have been assigned to come up with ideas and suggestions.

Jens Kullberg, owner of Stage Gulch Vineyards, said the Petaluma Gap term first started showing up in wine literature about a decade ago, and is now being used more frequently. He said that while not specifically defined, the Petaluma Gap's western edge runs roughly from Tomales to Bodega and the southern tip extends as far as Nicasio. Its northern and eastern border starts around Penngrove/Cotati and runs southeast along Carneros Ridge, ending at San Pablo Bay.

"We believe this is a micro-climate that is conducive to producing quality pinot noir and chardonnay," said Kullberg. "I think the consistency of the product is outstanding."

Pinot noir has gained a dramatic surge in popularity, in large part due to the movie "Sideways" which came out in 2004. And the local market stands to benefit. Petaluma's Ridgeway Family Vineyards' first vintage of pinot noir will be available this fall. Keller Estate has a pinot, and Corda Winery is also releasing one this year.

And the area is ripe for an increase of pinot noir vineyards. The current draft of the Sonoma County General Plan environmental impact report says that, due to the increased demand for pinot noir grapes and the relatively large amount of space nearby that could be converted to vineyards, the Petaluma area has the potential to have as many as 10 wine tasting and processing facilities by 2020, occupying as much as 632,000 square feet.

Petaluma currently has three wineries that offer tasting by appointment only, including Keller, Kastania and Corda.

(Contact Dane Golden at dgolden@arguscourier.com)

PETALUMA GAP GRAPE AND WINE ALLIANCE

Armagh Vineyard

www.armaghwine.com

Adobe Road Winery

www.adoberoadwines.com

Avesta Vineyard & Wine

The Beverage People

Copeland Creek

www.copelandcreekvineyards.com

Corda Winery*

www.cordawinery.com

Corona Creek Winery

Devils Gulch Ranch

www.devilsgulchranch.com

Fairview Vineyards

Flocchini Vineyards

Griffin's Lair Vineyards

Hendricks Vineyard

Herrerias Cellars

Kastania Vineyards*

www.kastaniavineyards.com

Keller Estate*

www.kellerestate.com

North Bay Adobe Associates

Petaluma Visitors Program

www.visitpetaluma.com

Que Syra Family Vineyard

Ridgeway Family Vineyards

Chris Sawyer

Singer Cellars

Sleepy Hollow & Rodney Strong Vineyards

Stage Gulch Vineyards

Stubbs Vineyard

www.stubbsvineyard.com

*Tasting room by appointment

++++

"Pinot needs constant care and attention, you know? And in fact, it can only grow in these really specific, little, tucked away corners of the world ... Then, I mean -- oh, its flavors -- they're just the most haunting and brilliant and thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet."

-- From the movie "Sideways"

++++

"Nestled in the rolling hills between Petaluma and Tomales Bay, our vineyards take advantage of cool marine air and fog that ensures the delicate development of varietal flavors and textures."

-- Corda Winery label