The skinny on fast food

As a new In-N-Out Burger restaurant prepares to open in Petaluma, the debate about healthy eating habits is renewed

June 21, 2006

By DAN JOHNSON
ARGUS-COURIER STAFF

As construction workers put the final touches on a new fast-food restaurant at 1010 Lakeville Highway, local school administrators and politicians sit in offices and meetings contemplating ways of improving students' dietary habits.

The juxtaposition is striking, and to some people suggests that when it comes to children's dietary habits, different elements of our community are working against each other. Others say the matter isn't quite that simple.

Supporters of fast-food restaurants point to the cheap, quick meals and enjoyable social atmosphere they provide for young people, and emphasize that they supply many of them with jobs, where they learn important skills. Some supporters also claim that the new kid in town, In-N-Out Burger on Lakeville, will offer more healthy items than other fast-food operations.

Critics complain about the high fat and caloric content of fast-food items and the quick eating habits they encourage. Many of these critics acknowledge that In-N-Out Burger offers somewhat fresher and healthier items than many fast-food restaurants, but argue that its offerings, such as the 670-calorie Double-Double Cheeseburger, create many of the same health risks, and that other fast-food restaurants offer more size varieties, including smaller servings of burgers and french fries.

"Our food doesn't contain additives, fillers or preservatives," said Carl Van Fleet, vice president of planning at In-N-Out Burger's office in Irvine. "Our meat patties are delivered at least every other day, and we prepare our produce right in front of you.

"We've emphasized quality and freshness ever since our first restaurant opened in 1948."

In-N-Out Burger has been criticized for not disclosing the amount of trans fatty acids, or trans fat, in its products. Essentially, trans fat is made during hydrogenation, when hydrogen is added to vegetable oil. Hydrogenation increases the shelf life and flavor stability of foods containing these fats.

Trans fat, like saturated fat and dietary cholesterol, raises the LDL (or "bad") cholesterol that increases risk for coronary heart disease. On the average, Americans consume four to five times as much saturated fat as trans fat.

Although saturated fat is the main dietary culprit that raises LDL, trans fat and dietary cholesterol also significantly contribute.

"I don't know how much trans fat our foods contain, and don't think our company has that information available. But our french fries are cooked in 100 percent pure, cholesterol-free vegetable oil, rather than hydrogenated oil. So at most, they contain only a sprinkling, a barely detectable amount, of trans fat," Van Fleet said.

Even many health-care administrators assert that they don't want to single out fast-food restaurants as the lone culprit for poor nutritional habits, saying that equally unhealthy meals can be purchased in fancy, high-priced restaurants and grocery stores. And they often clarify that the regularity of fast-food consumption determines if health risks arise.

"Health district surveys and independent studies show that if eaten frequently or in large quantities, fast food is very unhealthy," said Daymon Doss, CEO of the Petaluma Health Care District. "But if eaten moderately, itÕs not a health hazard."

"Certainly, a wider variety and balance in diet is important," Van Fleet said. "We have customers that come frequently, occasionally and infrequently, and allow them to customize their burgers, depending upon their specific dietary needs and concerns."

Susan Gilmore, executive director of Novato's North Bay Children's Center and an active member of Petaluma's Support Healthy Kids in Education, says that children need to create healthy eating habits during their first five years.

"Lifelong eating habits are established during those years, so it's important to introduce fruits and vegetables to children then," she said.

A recent online survey of 550 Marin high school students showed that 53 percent of them would eat at school instead of off-campus restaurants if healthier foods were available.

Casa Grande High School students voiced mixed feelings about fast and junk foods.

"It's good and cheap. I don't really worry about the health effects, because it tastes good," said Jimmy Bruce, who will be a senior this fall.

"I think it's horrible -- I rarely eat it," said senior James Ginn. "The only fast food I eat is from In-N-Out. I think it's probably the healthiest of all the fast-food restaurants, but nonetheless, I think that fast food is crazy-bad for your body. And being a runner, I try not to mess it up with all that fat, sugar and grease."

"I eat fast food sometimes, but rarely, like when my brother has a late baseball game and my parents don't feel like cooking," said junior Carly Buck. "It's unhealthy, but I figure that because I work out and stay healthy, having it (once in a while) can't hurt much. It's called moderation."

"I'm a vegan, so I really have never eaten it," said 2006 Casa graduate Alyssa Smith. "I don't think there should be as many fast food restaurants in Petaluma, so I'm a little opposed to the new In-N-Out coming to town."

Two California Senate bills, which will go into effect July 1, 2007, aim to eliminate some unhealthy items from school campuses. Senate Bill 12 establishes rigorous nutrition limits on fat, sugar content and portion size for all foods -- other than those offered through the federal meal program -- sold on campuses for grades K-12 throughout the state.

Senate Bill 965 requires high schools to eliminate half of the soda and other sweetened beverages by July 1, 2007, and to remove all of them by July 1, 2009. Senate Bill 677 already set similar beverage standards for elementary and middle schools.

"We're in the process of adopting a wellness policy to comply with the new guidelines," said Elena Dibble, food services supervisor for Petaluma City Schools.

Also, in April, Senate Bill 2592 (identical to House Bill 5167), the national "Child Nutrition and School Promotion and School Lunch Protection Act," bipartisan legislation was introduced by Rep. Lynn Woolsey, among others, it would amend the Child Nutrition Act of 1966 to require a new definition of "foods of minimal nutritional value" and ban the sale of such foods on school campuses.

Gilmore feels that these bills and local programs designed to improve students' eating habits show that progress is being made.

"This requires a big community effort, and part of it involves educating children and their parents," she said. "But we're thrilled at what we're seeing, and shocked at how quickly the situation is turning around.

Gilmore said that recently, one local parent took her 9-year-old child on a NBCC field trip, and brought her 3-year-old child along.

"What is it?" the children were asked, as a particular green vegetable was held up.

Without missing a beat, the 3-year-old piped up and correctly said, "It's Swiss chard!"

(Argus-Courier intern Makala Keys contributed to this story. Contact Dan Johnson at djohnson@arguscourier.com)

A NUTRITIONAL ANALYSIS OF FAST FOOD

NutritionData, at www.nutritiondata.com, provides a nutrient analysis for foods served in fast food chains, including the following restaurants in Petaluma. Information on trans fat content was obtained from each restaurant's corporate Web site.

BURGER KING

Hamburger (121 grams) -- 310 calories, 5 grams of saturated fat and 0 grams of trans fat

Whopper (291 grams) -- 710 calories, 13 grams of saturated fat and 1.5 grams of trans fat

Whopper with cheese (316 grams) -- 800 calories, 18 grams of saturated fat and 1.5 grams of trans fat

Small french fries (74 grams) -- 229 calories, 3 grams of saturated fat and 3 grams of trans fat

IN-N-OUT BURGER (to open soon)

Hamburger (243 grams) -- 390 calories, and 5 grams of saturated fat (trans fat not provided)

Cheeseburger (268 grams) -- 480 calories and 10 grams of saturated fat (trans fat not provided)

Double-Double Burger (330 grams) -- 670 calories and 18 grams of saturated fat (trans fat not provided)

French fries -- one size available (125 grams) -- 400 calories and 5 grams of saturated fat (trans fat not provided)

MCDONALD'S

Hamburger (105 grams) -- 280 calories, 4 grams of saturated fat and .5 grams of trans fat

Cheeseburger (119 grams) -- 330 calories, 6 grams of saturated fat and 1 gram of trans fat

Double Cheeseburger (173 grams) -- 480 calories, 12 grams of saturated fat and 1.5 grams of trans fat

Big Mac (216 grams) -- 590 calories, 11 grams of saturated fat and 1.5 grams of trans fat

Quarter Pounder with Cheese (199 grams) -- 530 calories, 13 grams of saturated fat and 1.5 grams of trans fat

Double Quarter Pounder with Cheese (280 grams) -- 760 calories, 20 grams of saturated fat and 3 grams of trans fat

Small french fries (68 grams) -- 209 calories, 2 grams of saturated fat and 3.5 grams of trans fat

WENDY'S

Classic Single with Everything (218 grams) -- 410 calories, 7 grams of saturated fat and 1 gram of trans fat

Junior Hamburger (117 grams) -- 270 calories, 3 grams of saturated fat and 0.5 gram of trans fat

Junior Cheeseburger (129 grams) --310 calories, 5 grams of saturated fat and 0.5 gram of trans fat

Junior Cheeseburger Deluxe (179 grams) -- 350 calories, 6 grams of saturated fat and 0.5 gram of trans fat

Small french fries (91 grams) -- 254 calories (96 from fat), 2 grams of saturated fat and 5 grams of trans fat